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Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles／纺织入门1

Chapter 1 Introduction／介绍1

1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语1

1.2 Fiber history／纤维历史9

1.2.1 Natural fibers／天然纤维9

1.2.2 Man-made fibers／化学纤维10

Questions／思考题13

Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers／纺织纤维15

Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers／天然纤维素纤维15

2.1 Cotton／棉16

2.1.1 Nature of cotton／棉花的种类16

2.1.2 Classification／分类17

2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton／棉纤维的生长与结构17

2.1.4 Maturity／成熟度19

2.1.5 Cotton properties／棉纤维的性能21

2.1.6 Cotton classification／棉花分级22

2.2 Bast fibers／韧皮纤维23

2.2.1 Flax(linen)／亚麻，亚麻织物24

2.2.2 Ramie／苎麻26

2.2.3 Hemp／汉麻27

2.2.4 Jute／黄麻27

Questions／思考题28

Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers／天然蛋白质纤维29

3.1 Wool／绵羊毛29

3.1.1 Wool production and history／羊毛生产和历史29

3.1.2 Wool grading／羊毛分级30

3.1.3 Wool structure／羊毛结构30

3.1.4 Wool properties／羊毛性能31

3.2 Specialty animal fibers／特种动物毛34

3.3 Silk／丝35

Questions／思考题37

Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers／化学纤维38

4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber／纤维生产工艺38

4.1.1 Wet spinning／湿法纺丝39

4.1.2 Dry spinning／干法纺丝39

4.1.3 Melt spinning／熔体法纺丝39

4.1.4 Gel spinning／凝胶纺丝40

4.2 Regenerated fibers／再生纤维40

4.2.1 Acetate／醋酯纤维40

4.2.2 Triacetate／三醋酯纤维42

4.2.3 Viscose fibers／粘胶纤维42

4.3 Synthetic fibers／合成纤维43

4.3.1 Acrylic／腈纶43

4.3.2 Modacrylic／改性腈纶44

4.3.3 Nylon／锦纶44

4.3.4 Polyester／涤纶45

4.3.5 PBI／聚苯并咪唑纤维46

4.3.6 Vinal／聚乙烯醇纤维46

4.3.7 Olefin／聚烯烃纤维46

4.3.8 Aramid／芳纶47

4.3.9 Lycra／莱卡47

4.4 Other man-made fibers／其他化学纤维49

4.4.1 Glass／玻璃纤维49

4.4.2 Metallic／金属纤维50

Questions／思考题50

Chapter 5 New Fibers／新型纤维51

5.1 Carbon fibers／碳纤维51

5.2 Fluorocarbon／氟碳纤维51

5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)／莱塞尔纤维51

5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers／高湿模量纤维52

5.4.1 Modal fibers／莫代尔纤维52

5.4.2　Richcel／丽赛纤维53

5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers／大豆蛋白复合纤维53

5.6 PLA fiber／聚左旋乳酸纤维54

5.7 Heterogenous fibers／复合纤维54

5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent／双组分或多组分55

5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent／双成分或多成分56

5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril／基质型纤维56

5.8 Differential fibers／差别化纤维57

5.9 Functional fibers／功能性纤维57

5.10 High performance fibers／高性能纤维57

Questions／思考题57

Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture／吸湿性58

6.1 Orientation and crystallization／取向与结晶58

6.2 Moisture sorption／吸湿性58

6.2.1 Regain and moisture content／回潮率与含水率58

6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity／回潮率与相对湿度的关系58

6.2.3 Comparison of various materials／不同材料吸湿性的对比59

6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption／吸湿理论61

Questions／思考题63

Chapter 7 Other Physicai Properties of Textile Fibers／纤维的其他物理性能64

7.1 Electronic properties／电学性能64

7.1.1 Definitions／定义64

7.2 Optical properties／光学性能65

7.3 Thermal properties／热学性能66

7.3.1 Thermal parameters／热力学参数66

7.3.2 Acomparison of temperature effects／温度效应比较66

Questions／思考题66

Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns／纺织纱线67

Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction／纱线制造与结构67

8.1 Spun yarns／短纤纱68

8.2 Filament yarns／长丝纱68

8.3 Methods of yarn processing／纺纱方法68

8.3.1 Ring-spinning／环锭纺69

8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing／新型纺纱方法69

8.4 Single and ply yarns／单纱和股线72

8.5 Special types of yarn／特种纱线73

8.5.1 Fancy yarns／花式纱73

8.5.2 Stretch yarns／弹力纱74

8.5.3 Textured yarns／变形纱线74

8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns／纱线混纺与混用75

Questions／思考题76

Chapter 9 Yarn Properties／纱线性能77

9.1 Yarn number／纱线细度77

9.1.1 Denier system／旦数77

9.1.2 Yarn count system／纱线英制支数77

9.1.3 Tex system／线密度78

9.1.4 Metric numbering system／公制支数78

9.1.5 Conversion in different systems／不同系统之间的换算78

9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent／股线支数与单纱支数78

9.3 Yarn twist／纱线捻度79

9.4 Yarn hairiness／纱线毛羽80

9.4.1 Hairiness test method／毛羽测试方法81

9.4.2 Factors affecfing hairiness／影响毛羽的因素81

9.5 Yarn unevenness／纱线不匀82

9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness／纱线不匀的测试82

9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness／纱线不匀的原因83

9.6 Classification of yarn quality／纱线质量分析83

Questions／思考题83

Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics／织物85

Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics／机织物85

10.1 Making woven fabrics／织制机织物85

10.1.1 The loom／织机85

10.1.2 Loom type／织机类型87

10.1.3 Loom motions／织机运动87

10.1.4 Electronics in weaving／电子技术在织机中的应用88

10.1.5 The selvage／布边88

10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns／经纱和纬纱88

10.2.1 Identification／鉴别89

10.3 Face and back／正面与反面89

10.3.1 Reasons for differenee／存在差异的原因90

10.3.2Caution／应用的要点90

10.4 Top and bottom／顶端和底端90

10.4.1 Reasons for difference／存在差异的原因90

10.5 Weave floats／组织浮线91

10.6 Basic weaves／基本组织91

10.6.1 Plain weave／平纹组织91

10.6.2 Twill weave／斜纹组织92

10.6.3 Satin weave／缎纹组织94

10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics／织物性能和参数95

10.7.1 Fabric width／幅宽95

10.7.2 Fabric weight／织物重量95

10.7.3 Fabric thickness／织物厚度96

10.7.4 Fabric density／织物密度96

10.7.5 Fabric count／织物经纬密度96

10.7.6 Fabric defects／织物疵点96

Questions／思考题96

Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics／针织物97

11.1 Making of knitted fabric／针织物形成97

11.1.1 The forming ofknitted stitches／线圈的形成97

11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches／线圈的种类99

11.2 Weft knits／纬编针织物100

11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric／纬平针织物100

11.2.2 Rib knit fabric／罗纹针织物101

11.2.3 Purl knit fabric／双反面针织物102

11.2.4 Double knits／双面针织物103

11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits／全成形针织物103

11.3 Warp knits／经编针织物104

11.3.1 Tricot fabrics／特里科经编针织物104

11.3.2 Raschel fabrics／拉舍尔经编针织物105

11.4 Performance and characteristics／性能和参数105

Questions／思考题106

Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics／非织造布107

12.1 Introduction／导论107

12.2 Manufacturing methods／生产方法108

12.2.1 Dry laid system／干法成网108

12.2.2 Wet laid system／湿法成网108

12.2.3 Polymer laid system／聚合物挤压法108

12.3 Various nonwovens／各种非织造布108

12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens／针刺法非织造布108

12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens／黏合法非织造布109

12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens／射流喷网法非织造布110

12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens／纺粘法非织造布111

12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens／熔喷法非织造布112

Questions／思考题112

PartⅤ Textile Testing／纺织品测试113

Chapter 13 General Test Methods／常规测试方法113

13.1 General fiber tests／纤维常规测试113

13.1.1 Fiber identification／纤维鉴别113

13.1.2 Fiber length／纤维长度117

13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density／纤维细度或线密度118

13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape／截面形状118

13.1.5 Crimp／卷曲118

13.1.6 Regain／回潮率119

13.1.7 Mechanical properties／机械性能119

13.1.8 Chemical characteristics／化学性能119

13.1.9 Surface characteristics／表面性能119

13.1.10 Density and specific gravity／密度和相对密度120

13.2 Special tests for natural fibers／天然纤维的测试120

13.2.1 Tests for cotton／棉纤维测试120

13.2.2 Tests for wool／毛纤维测试122

13.3 Testing of tensile properties／拉伸性能测试123

13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties／拉伸性能的描述124

13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing／纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试129

13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing／织物拉伸性能测试方法130

Questions／思考题132

Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling／织物磨损与起球133

14.1 Types of abrasion／磨损的类型133

14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics／织物间的磨损133

14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface／织物与非纤维制品表面磨损133

14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric／织物内部磨损134

14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric／与织物内部其他材料的磨损134

14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance／影响耐磨性能的因素134

14.2.1 Fabric properties／织物性能134

14.2.2 Other factors／其他因素136

14.3 Abrasion testing／磨损测试137

14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen／与未磨损样品视觉对比137

14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole／产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数137

14.3.3 Change in a physical property／物理性能的变化137

14.3.4 Microscopic examination／显微镜观测138

14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear／穿着和磨损对美感的影响138

14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion／磨损引起的颜色变化138

14.4.2 Pilling／起球139

Questions／思考题140

Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape／织物手感与悬垂141

15.1 Fabric hand／织物手感141

15.2 Fabric drape／织物悬垂142

15.3 Measurement of hand and drape／手感与悬垂的评价144

15.3.1 Subjective evaluation／主观评定法144

15.3.2 Quantitative measurement／定量评定法145

15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system／KES评定法146

Questions／思考题146

Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness／织物染色牢度147

16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness／颜色和染色牢度评定方法147

16.2 Colorfastness tests／染色牢度测试147

16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking／耐摩擦色牢度147

16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching／耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢148

16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning／耐干洗色牢度149

16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration／耐汗渍色牢度149

16.2.5 Colorfastness to water／耐水浸色牢度149

16.2.6 Colorfastness to light／耐光照色牢度150

16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants／耐空气污染色牢度151

Questions／思考题151

Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability／织物可燃性152

17.1 Flammability standards／可燃性标准152

17.2 Properties affecting flammability／影响可燃性的因素152

17.3 Flammability testing／可燃性测试154

17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test／45°燃烧测试法154

17.3.2 Vertical flame tests／垂直燃烧测试法155

17.3.3 Carpet testing／地毯测试155

17.3.4 Cigarette tests／卷烟点燃测试155

17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests／其他可燃性测试156

Questions／思考题156

Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles／纺织品舒适性157

18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort／影响热舒适性能的物理现象157

18.1.1 Heat transfer／热传递157

18.1.2 Moisture transfer／湿传递158

18.1.3 Water resistance／抗水性158

18.1.4 Air transfer／透气性159

18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor／多孔性和覆盖系数159

18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity／静电160

18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort／与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价160

18.2.1 Heat transfer／热传递161

18.2.2 Moisture properties／湿传递性能162

18.2.3 Air permeability／透气性162

18.2.4 Porosity／孔隙率163

18.2.5 Electrostatic tests／静电测试163

Questions／思考题163

Appendix／附录164

AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS／美国纺织化学家与染色家协会164

ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS／美国材料试验学会167

Vocabulary／词汇表172

References／参考文献180