针织学 第3版2025|PDF|Epub|mobi|kindle电子书版本百度云盘下载

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Chapter 1 General terms and principles of knitting technology 针织基本术语和基本原理1

1.1 Machine knitting 机器针织1

1.2 The knitted loop structure 针织线圈结构1

1.3 A course 线圈横列1

1.4 A wale 线圈纵行2

1.5 Stitch density 线圈密度2

1.6 The main features of the knitting machine 针织机的主要特征3

1.7 The needle 织针3

1.8 Fabric draw-off 织物牵拉4

1.9 The basic knitting action of a needle 织针的基本成圈过程4

1.10 The bearded needle 钩针5

1.11 The latch needle 舌针6

1.12 The bi-partite compound needle 两部分组成的复合针10

1.13 A comparison of latch and compound needles 舌针和复合针的比较11

1.14 Machine gauge 机号12

Chapter 2 Basic mechanical principles of knitting technology 针织的基本机械原理14

2.1 The sinker 沉降片14

2.2 The iack 底脚片，挺针片16

2.3 Cams 三角，凸轮16

2.4 The three methods of forming yarn into needle loops 三种成圈方法19

Chapter 3 Elements of knitted loop structure 针织线圈结构20

3.1 The needle loop 圈干20

3.2 The sinker loop 沉降弧21

3.3 Warp knitted laps 经编线圈21

3.4 The overlap 针前垫纱22

3.5 The underlap 针背垫纱22

3.6 The closed lap 闭口线圈23

3.7 The open lap 开口线圈23

3.8 Wrapping 经纱提花23

3.9 The knitted stitch 针织线圈24

3.10 The face loop stitch 正面线圈24

3.11 The reverse loop stitch 反面线圈24

3.12 Single-faced structures 单面织物25

3.13 Double-faced structures 双面织物25

3.14 Selvedged fabric 光边织物26

3.15 Cut edge fabric 开幅织物26

3.16 Tubular fabric 筒状织物26

3.17 Upright loop structures 线圈直立结构26

3.18 Knitting notations 针织表示法27

Chapter 4 The four primary base weft knitted structures 四种纬编基本组织28

4.1 Introduction 引言28

4.2 Plain structure 纬平针组织29

4.3 Rib structure 罗纹组织34

4.4 Interlock structure 双罗纹（棉毛）组织39

4.5 Purl structure 双反面组织43

Chapter 5 Stitches produced by varying the sequence of the needle loop intermeshing 通过变换线圈串套的次序形成的针织结构49

5.1 Knitted stitches 成圈线圈49

5.2 The held loop 握持线圈49

5.3 The drop or press-off stitch 脱套结构50

5.4 The float stitch 提花组织，浮线组织51

5.5 Float plating 浮线添纱，架空添纱52

5.6 The tuck stitch 集圈组织53

Chapter 6 Coloured stitch designs in weft knitting 纬编色织花色织物58

6.1 Horizontal striping 横条59

6.2 Intarsia 嵌花60

6.3 Plating 添纱62

6.4 Individual stitch selection 单针选针63

6.5 Jacquard design areas 提花花纹范围68

6.6 Worked example 设计实例68

Chapter 7 Pattern and selection devices 提花选针机构73

7.1 Weft knitted patterns 纬编花色织物73

7.2 Different lengths of butt 不同针踵长度73

7.3 Different butt positions 不同针踵位置75

7.4 Multi-step butt set-outs 多级选针齿配置76

7.5 Selection devices 选针装置76

7.6 Element selection 选针76

7.7 Selection area arrangement 选针区域配置78

7.8 Full jacquard mechanical needle selection 满针提花机械选针81

7.9 Multi-step geometric needle selection 多级选针片选针81

7.10 Needle selection by disc 圆齿片选针83

7.11 The pattern wheel 提花轮84

7.12 Pattern wheel design areas 提花轮花纹范围86

7.13 Electronic needle selection 电子选针88

Chapter 8 Electronics in knitting 针织中的电子技术91

8.1 The disadvantages of mechanical control 机械控制的不足之处91

8.2 The disadvantages of mechanical programming 机械程序设计的不足之处91

8.3 The advantages of electronic control and programming 电子控制和编程的优点91

8.4 The compatibility of electronic signals and knitting data 电子信号与针织数据的兼容性92

8.5 Microprocessors and computers 微处理器和计算机93

8.6 The computerised knitting machine 电脑针织机93

8.7 Computer graphics and pattern preparation 计算机花型准备94

8.8 The Stoll CAD pattern preparation system 斯托尔计算机辅助花型准备系统97

8.9 The Shima total design system 岛精花型设计系统101

Chapter 9 Circular fabric knitting 圆形纬编织物的编织102

9.1 Weft knitted fabric production 纬编织物的生产102

9.2 Single-and double-jersey compared 单双面针织物的比较103

9.3 Simple tuck and float stitch single-jersey fabrics 带有集圈和浮线的单面织物103

9.4 Non-jacquard double-jersey structures 非提花双面针织物104

9.5 Double-jersey inlay 双面衬纬109

9.6 The modern circular fabric knitting machine 现代圆机111

9.7 Versatility and quick response 多功能和快速响应113

9.8 The'contra'knitting technique 相对编织技术114

9.9 Circular-machine production calculations 圆机生产计算115

Chapter 10 Speciality fabrics and machines 特殊纬编织物和机器117

10.1 The range of speciality fabrics 特殊织物的种类117

10.2 The production of fleecy on sinker-top machines 衬垫组织在舌针圆机上的编织118

10.3 Fleecy interlock 双罗纹衬垫120

10.4 Plush 毛圈120

10.5 The bearded needle sinkerwheel machine 吊机121

10.6 Sinker plush knitted on single-jersey latch needle machines 毛圈织物在单面舌针机上的编织121

10.7 Full-density patterned plush 高密度提花毛圈122

10.8 Cut loop 割圈毛圈123

10.9 Double-sided plush 双面毛圈123

10.10 Sliver or high-pile knitting 长毛绒123

10.11 Wrap patterning 经纱提花124

Chapter 11 Loop transfer stitches 移圈组织126

11.1 Uses of loop transfer 移圈的应用126

11.2 The four main types of transfer stitches 四种主要的移圈组织126

Chapter 12 Welts,garment sequences and knitting to shape 关边、计件和成形133

12.1 The welt 关边133

12.2 Rib welts 罗纹关边135

12.3 Separation 分离横列136

12.4 Imparting shape during knitting 编织成形137

12.5 Integral garment knitting 整体编织145

Chapter 13 Flat knitting,basic principles and structures 横编，基本原理和结构146

13.1 History 发展历史146

13.2 The two types of flat machine 两种横机146

13.3 Flat machine gauges 横机机号147

13.4 Conversion from Cottons Patent to V-bed gauge 柯登机和横机机号的换算147

13.5 Knitting widths 编织宽度147

13.6 Yarn counts 纱支148

13.7 Simple hand-manipulated V-bed rib flat machines 简单手动横机148

13.8 Stitch cam settings 弯纱三角调节152

13.9 Spring-loaded cams 弹簧支撑三角152

13.10 Two or more cam systems 两个以上的三角系统153

13.11 Split cam-carriages 双三角座153

13.12 Direct and indirect yarn feed 直接和间接喂纱153

13.13 Yarn carrier arrangement 导纱器配置154

13.14 Typical structures knitted on flat machines 横机编织的典型织物155

Chapter 14 Automatic power flat knitting 全自动横编161

14.1 History 发展历史161

14.2 The MacQueen concept 麦克奎因的设想161

14.3 Power flat machines 自动横机162

14.4 The versatility of V-bed power flat knitting V形床自动横机的多功能性162

14.5 Electronic controls replace mechanical controls 电子控制取代机械控制162

14.6 The garment sequence programme 衣片编织顺序控制程序163

14.7 Mechanical jacquard selection 机械提花选针163

14.8 The Shima Seiki electronic selection system 岛精电子选针系统163

14.9 The take-down system 牵拉系统167

14.10 The fixed-stroke carriage traverse 定动程机头行程167

14.11 Meeting the requirements of a shaping machine 成形横机的要求168

14.12 The multiple-gauge technique 多针距技术171

14.13 The split stitch 分针移圈线圈172

14.14 Multi-carriage flat machines 多机头横机172

14.15 Seamless glove knitting 无缝手套机173

14.16 The WholeGarment knitting technique 整体服装编织技术174

14.17 The Shima model FIRST 岛精公司FIRST型横机177

14.18 The Tsudakoma TFK machine 津田驹公司TFK型横机178

Chapter 15 The manufacture of hosiery on small-diameter circular machines 在小筒径圆机上生产针织袜180

15.1 Types of hosiery 针织袜的种类180

15.2 Classes of hosiery machines 袜机的分类181

15.3 Gauge 机号182

15.4 The early development of ladies'fine-gauge hosiery machines 细针距袜机的早期发展182

15.5 The advent of nylon 锦纶（尼龙）的出现183

15.6 Trends in fine-gauge hosiery since 1956 1956年以来细针距袜的发展趋势183

15.7 Ladder-resist structures 防脱散结构185

15.8 The development of the double-cylinder machine 双针筒袜机的发展186

15.9 Single-cylinder sock machines 单针筒袜机186

15.10 Timing and control of mechanical changes on circular hosiery machines 圆袜机上机械式定时和控制机构186

15.11 Adjustment of loop length 线圈长度的调节188

15.12 The double-cylinder slider butt set-out 双针筒导针片踵的排列188

15.13 Production of heels and toes 袜跟和袜头的编织189

15.14 Automatic separation 自动单件落袜190

15.15 Seamed toe closing 袜头的缝合191

15.16 Automatic toe closing on the knitting machine 在针织机上袜头的自动缝合191

15.17 Tights 连裤袜194

15.18 The'seamless'bodywear garment machine 无缝适体服装针织机197

Chapter 16 Aspects of knitting science 针织科学概况199

16.1 Knitted loop-shape and loop-length control 针织线圈形态和长度的控制199

16.2 Loop length 线圈长度200

16.3 Warp let-off 经编送经202

16.4 Weft knitted fabric relaxation and shrinkage 纬编针织物的松弛回缩204

16.5 Knitted fabric geometry 针织物的几何形态205

16.6 Tightness factor 紧密系数206

16.7 Robbing back 回退207

16.8 Needle bounce and high-speed knitting 织针回跳与高速编织208

16.9 The Cadratex unit Cadratex 卷取装置209

16.10 Positive needle control 积极式走针控制209

Chapter 17 Basic warp knitting principles 经编的基本原理211

17.1 Construction of warp knitted fabrics 经编织物结构211

17.2 The warp beams 经轴212

17.3 The guide bar 梳栉212

17.4 The guides 导纱针212

17.5 Single needle bar structures 单针床机构213

17.6 The pattern mechanism 梳栉横移机构214

17.7 The chain links 链条214

17.8 The electronic guide bar control system 电子梳栉控制系统216

17.9 The development of lapping diagrams and chain notations 垫纱运动图和垫纱数码记录法的发展216

17.10 Single-or double-needle overlaps 一针距或两针距的针前垫纱216

17.11 The five basic overlap/underlap variations 五类基本的针前／针背垫纱运动218

17.12 The direction of lapping at successive courses 连续横列的垫纱运动方向218

Chapter 18 Classes of warp knitting machines 经编机的分类222

18.1 Characteristics of tricot and raschel machines 特里科经编机和拉舍尔经编机的特点222

18.2 The tricot machine 特里科经编机222

18.3 The raschel machine 拉舍尔经编机225

18.4 The compound-needle warp knitting machine 复合针经编机229

18.5 The crochet machine 钩编机230

18.6 The Waltex machine 瓦尔特克斯管针经编机235

18.7 Warping 整经235

Chapter 19 Plain tricot structures knitted with two full set guide bars 满穿双梳平面特里科织物237

19.1 Rules governing two guide bar structures 梳组织形成原则237

19.2 Two bar tricot 双经平组织240

19.3 Locknit 经平绒组织241

19.4 Reverse locknit 经绒平组织241

19.5 Sharkskin 经斜平组织（雪克斯金、鲨鱼皮）241

19.6 Queenscord 经斜编链组织241

19.7 Double atlas 双经缎组织242

19.8 Satin 经平斜组织243

19.9 Velour and velvet 丝绒和天鹅绒织物243

19.10 Overfed pile structures 超喂毛圈组织243

19.11 Typical run-in ratios for nylon yarns 锦纶织物的典型送经比244

Chapter 20 Surface interest,relief and open-work structures 结构、凸纹及孔眼织物245

20.1 Basic principles 基本原则245

20.2 Miss-lapping 缺垫246

20.3 Part-threaded guide bars 部分穿纱梳栉246

Chapter 21 'Laying-in'and fall-plate 衬纬和压纱板250

21.1 Laying-in and weft insertion 衬纬250

21.2 General rules governing laying-in in warp knitting 形成经编衬纬的基本原则251

21.3 Mesh structures 网眼织物252

21.4 Fall-plate patterning 压纱板花形252

21.5 Full-width weft insertion 全幅衬纬255

21.6 Magazine weft insertion 复式衬纬256

21.7 Cut presser and miss-press structures 花压板和缺压组织257

21.8 Spot or knop effects 凸结效果259

21.9 Terry by the press-off method 脱圈法生产的毛圈260

Chapter 22 Multi guide bar machines and fabrics 多梳经编机及其织物262

22.1 The development of raschel lace 拉舍尔花边的开发262

22.2 The success of raschel lace 拉舍尔花边的成功之处262

22.3 Pattern guide bars 花梳栉263

22.4 Guide bar nesting 梳栉的集聚264

22.5 Multi-bar tricot lace machines 多梳特里科花边机264

22.6 Chain links and electronic control of shogging 链条控制和电子控制的梳栉横移265

22.7 The summary drive 累加机构266

22.8 Raschel mesh structures 拉舍尔网眼结构266

22.9 Marquisette and voile 薄纱罗和巴里纱269

22.10 Elasticised fabrics 弹性织物270

22.11 Jacquard raschels 贾卡拉舍尔织物272

22.12 The Mayer Jacquardtronic multi-bar lace raschels 迈耶电子式多梳拉舍尔花边机273

Chapter 23 Double needle bar warp knitting machines 双针床经编机277

23.1 Operating principles 操作原理277

23.2 Double needle bar basic lapping principles 双针床基本垫纱原理278

23.3 Using two fully-threaded guide bars 使用两把满穿梳栉278

23.4 The simplex machine 辛普勒克斯经编机279

23.5 The double needle bar raschel 双针床拉舍尔经编机281

Chapter 24 Technical textiles 产业用纺织品290

24.1 Markets for technical textiles 产业用纺织品的市场290

24.2 The properties of warp knitted structures 经编织物的性能290

24.3 End-uses for technical textiles 产业用纺织品的用途291

24.4 Geotextiles 土工布292

24.5 Knitted wire 针织丝线292

24.6 The advantages of warp knitted nets 经编网的优点292

24.7 Composites 复合材料……-294

24.8 Warp knitted multi-axial weft insertion fabrics 经编多轴向衬纬织物294

24.9 Stitch bonding or web knitting 缝编295

24.10 Spacer fabrics 间隔织物296

24.11 Circular warp knitting 圆形经编297

24.12 V-bed technical fabrics 横机生产的产业用织物297

Appendix 附录300

Glossary 词汇表301